Stefano Ghisolfi (born February 18, 1993) is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, with lead being his strongest discipline. As a sport climber, he has redpointed sport climbing routes of grade ,
Climbing career
Competition climbing
In 2007, Ghisolfi participated in his first international competition: the IFSC European Youth Cup.
Both in 2010 and 2011, he won the bronze medal in Lead climbing at the IFSC World Youth Championships.
On October 13, 2012, he first got on the podium in the World Cup, obtaining a bronze medal in Xining, China. He obtained gold medals in the World Cup stages at Wujiang (China), in 2014, Xiamen (China), in 2016, and then again at Wujiang (China), in 2017.
Rock climbing
On November 2, 2015, he made the first free ascent (FFA) of
Lapsus, in Andonno (
Italy), a 70-hold
sport climbing route for which he proposed a grade of .
On December 7, 2018, after climbing the sport route Perfecto Mundo (Margalef, Spain), he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a route at that grade, after Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Alex Megos.
On September 2, 2020, he made the second ascent of , in Flatanger Municipality, Norway; the first-ever 9b+ route in history, established by Adam Ondra in 2012.[
]
On August 24, 2021, he made the second ascent of Bibliographie , in Céüse, France. Originally graded with a proposed 9c (5.15d) rating, the route was first established by Alex Megos. Ghisolfi then downgraded it to 9b+.
On February 2, 2023, made the FA of Excalibur, in Arco, in Italy, for which he proposed a grade of .
Rankings
Climbing World Cup
|
| Lead | | 21 | 24 | 10 | 10 | 9 | 9 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 5 | 1 |
| Bouldering | | 65 | 83 | | | 30 | | | | | 41 | |
| Speed | 17 | 30 | 38 | | | | | | | | | |
| Combined | | 10 | 10 | | | 4 | | | 9 | | | |
Climbing World Championships
Youth[ WY Championships 2011, not included in Ghisolfi's IFSC profile]
Adult
|
| Lead | 27 | 16 | 10 | 7 | 22 |
| Bouldering | 25 | 16 | | | |
| Speed | 30 | 33 | | | |
Climbing European Championships
Youth
Adult
|
| Lead | 37 | 16 | 7 | 10 |
| Bouldering | 37 | 35 | 35 | - |
| Speed | 18 | 32 | 26 | - |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead
Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup
Lead
Speed
Rock climbing
Redpointed routes
- * Perfecto Mundo - Margalef (Spain) - December 7, 2018
- * - Flatanger (Norway) - September 29, 2020
- * Bibliographie - Céüse (France) - August 24, 2021
- * Excalibur - Arco (Italy) - February 5, 2023 - First ascent.
- * Move Hard - Flatanger (Norway) - September 16, 2022 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2017
- * L'Arenauta - Sperlonga (ITA) - February 10, 2022 - First ascent.
- * The Lonely Mountain - Arco (Italy) - December 17, 2021 - First Ascent.
- * Erebor - Arco (Italy) - January 11, 2021
- * La Capella - Siurana (Spain) - January 12, 2018 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2011
- * One Slap - Arco (Italy) - November 22, 2017 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2017
- * First Round, First Minute - Margalef (Spain) - January 30, 2017
- * Lapsus - Andonno (Italy) - November 2, 2015 - First ascent
- * La Rambla - Siurana (Spain) - March 20, 2017
- * First Ley - Margalef (Spain) - January 2017
- * Ultimatum - Massone (Arco, (Italy)) - December 19, 2016
- * Jungle Boogie - Céüse (France) - October 2, 2016
- * Realization - Céüse (France) - June 21, 2015
- * Demencia senil - Margalef (Spain) - March 14, 2015
- * La moustache qui fàche - Entraygues (France) - August 23, 2014
- * Thunder Ribes - Massone (Arco, (Italy)) - December 16, 2016 - Combination of the routes Reini's Vibes, Ultima Pietra, and Stonehenge.
- * L'Attimo - Covolo (ITA) - October 11, 2015
- * Underground - Massone (Arco, (Italy)) - July 5, 2014 - First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998
- * Biologico - Narango (Arco, (Italy)) - June 8, 2014 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2012
- * TCT - Gravere (Italy) - May 31, 2014 - First ascent
- * Grandi Gesti - Grotta dell'Arenauta (Sperlonga, Italy) - December 30, 2013 - First ascent by Gianluca Daniele, 2009
- * Ground Zero - Tetto di Sarre (Italy) - June 9, 2013 - First ascent by Alberto Gnerro, 2002
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routes
- * Fish Eye - Oliana (Spain) - January 8, 2017
- * Falconeti - Montsant (Spain) - January 2013
- * L-mens - Montsant (Spain) - January 2013
[[Boulder problems/" itemprop="url" title="Wiki: Bouldering">Bouldering
Ghisolfi climbed five and two boulder problems.
He won the 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 editions of Melloblocco.
See also
-
List of grade milestones in rock climbing
-
History of rock climbing
-
Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals
External links
